ZoeSandra Chow
DESIGN
"To be an Artist or a Designer?"
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I asked myself what I would like to be in life many years ago.
the answer always the same.
"Designer, a job that can create a better world."
Presenting to you below
are a few of the design assignments or programs I have done before.
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The "Let's-make-it"
Projects
If there is some idea haunting my mind, and I don't know whether it works or not, I would say "Let's make it!". And that usually the best solution to clear doubt.
Modern Retro Corset
Corset has an attraction that would suck you into a timeless space. And many times, I couldn't decide whether I like it or hate it more.
This is a trial piece to create that vibe in between modern and vintage; western and oriental aesthetic. This hem is not completed as I thought of a better and more speedy construction in the mid way. Hopefully I will make a 2nd sample if I get the chance.
Cami Set
This cami set was made to satisfy my curiosity on how to operate some rare machines, including transferring a zz needle to an embroidery machine and understanding the pros & cons of applying related methods on production.
"They are beautiful;
they are delicate;
they are well thought out;
and they are all my teachers."
RECREATEION
The "Self-learning"
Projects
There are many amazing designs in the market and always something I could learn from them. By recreating the styles, it gave me a chance to relive the creator's thought. Facing the same struggle they might have; discovering the tiny details behind the design; and making the style again in my way.
Dion Lee's Corset
One of my favourite brands - Dion Lee! And finally, I have recreated its corset in a lingerie aesthetic and construction that's close to an industrial format at home. Patterning, cutting, sewing, and adjusting took me approximately 15 hours, which is nearly double of usual time as I made 2 rounds of samples for improving construction.
Tisja Damen's Body
This is such a gorgeous design from every angle. Every tiny detail of design surprised me. I can see the consideration behind was not only for aesthetic, but also garment grading and fitting. It is very enjoyable to remaking this art piece.
Varley's Legging
A quick recreation using limited resources that I had in hand. All patterning, cutting and sewing are completed within a day. I'm very appreciative of this commercial design after finding how speedy it would possibly be at production while only using a single type of sewing machine.
Balconette Bra (original style by IG: Katerynaolek_atelier)
I'm lucky to find the same lace as the original design. A challenge one with placement neckline while balancing the wire length. Without a deep understanding of the wire shape and patterning, the cup shape would easily go "ducky" on fitting or wrinkling at bottom cup.
Bra Set (original style: Agent Provocateur)
update: 2 March 2023
A gorgeous style. I'm re-creation this to satisfy my curiosity of lacing construction, continuous wire channel and long strap platform cup.
Bralette (original style by: Lonely Lingerie)
update: 2 March 2023
Pattern practice for front opening style, also understanding the lace cut out hemming.
Harness Ouvert Brief (original style by: Tisja Damen)
update: 2 March 2023
Pattern practice for full body silhouette.
Multi Styles (Merged styles or without record)
update: 2 March 2023
For pattern & Construction study.
Technical
It said you won't be able to enter the technical world without any background or experience.
But there I was.
And I figured it out why.
Technical skills are scattered data and experience that is difficult to learn from "someone" and difficult to prove that you know it.
I guess that doesn't apply to nerd.
The "Alchemy"
Projects
Knowledge and skills don't come easy. All those times, sweat and tears I had spent turned into my abilities.
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To me, these are worth more than gold.
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Therefore, I wish to apply my knowledge into the industry and do something good.
Patterning & Theory
Many technical designers are able to adjust patterns, but not all of them know the theory behind. With the matter of "recycle" pattern, applying-on-different materials and fitting issues, pattern adjustment could be like a rolling snowball.
To me, although garment technicians aren't making rockets, but "patterning" should be scientific and explainable. After all the research and study, I've analysed some methods to create patterns from scratch with high accuracy in first sampling.
Find out more on my Re-Creation page.
Sewing & Machines
Unlike outerwear, most of the lingerie can not be completed within 1-2 machines, but most commonly 6 kinds of them on average.
I can actually use sewing machines, not only Single Needle, but perhaps 10 types of it.
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A slight difference of hand gesture or press tool would be a game changer. Knowing the machines well not only improves the production quality but also accelerates the process. Sewing machines are just fascinating! I just wish to know more about them.
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*All the garments present in the website were sewn by myself.
Molding & Pad Developments
Experienced in mold pad development, from mold pad construction, material combination to plastic cone adjustment and grading.
Grading
Grading is only a logical and mathematical game. But from what I've seen, it would be easily missed out and went wrong when combining with material grade, even for experienced technicians. Also, no matter how great the basic size has been, without a clear mind and balancing adjustment, the biggest and smallest sizes would be easily off shaped.
Fitting
Wearable does not equal to well fitted.
And in my opinion, "well fitted" should mean more than having the right measurement and volume. Also humans are not dummies or avatars, tension and movement should count.
Anatomy
Even though I've some base from studying art, I dive deep into anatomy while doing various projects, therefore, I learn more and more about it.
And to my surprise, the industry seems to know very little of how lingerie affects the body. As modern women have learned more about breast cancer and related diseases, I just would like do something more actively as an insider.
Factory Transition and Training
Despite general communication and collaboration with the local sample rooms. I also have various experience of transiting sample rooms and production sites overseas. Including an on-site tutorial on quality standard and full process demonstration in Vietnam.
Systems & Softwares
System: Mac & PC
Adobe: Illustrator, Photoshop, InDesign, PDF Editor
MS: Outlook, Word, Excel, Powerpoint, Teams
Patterning: Toray
3D Stimulation: Vstitcher
System: PLM
Work Experience
Brands that I have handled during my career as Technician
Brands that I have handled during my career as Designer
Here are some of the launched products that I participated in the technical field over the last few years. Including constructing the garment & workmentship; fitting; patterning; machine tool developing; collaboration with QA testing, grading, molding, lamination and production team. etc...